Liz Moores - Papillon Artisan Perfumes

Vintage

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Could you tell us briefly about yourself?

My name is Liz Moores and I am a perfumer based in the heart of the British New Forest. I live in a home surrounded by nature and woodland with my partner and children along with a large menagerie of much loved animals.

When did your passion for perfume begin?

İ have always been interested in creative pursuits especially perfume as an art form. I come from a long line of creatives; dancers, artists, writers and actors, and for me, perfume is just another form of artistic expression. I love how fragrance can enable one to change their mood in an instant and the memories it can conjure, it is like magic in so many ways.

What was your first perfume you used?

In my teenage years I wore huge powerhouse fragrances, and you would always smell me before you could see me! The 80’s shaped my teenage years and the perfumes I wore the most were Obsession, Georgio Beverly Hills, Samsara, Poison and Joy. But my fondest memories were sitting at my grandmothers dressing table as a child and spraying myself with Youth Dew. İt is a fragrance that will always remind me of her and I have a bottle of vintage Youth Dew that I occasionally wear to enable me to almost travel back to this time in my childhood.

What was the first perfume you created? And did you get any help?

The first perfume I created was Anubis, and I completed this perfume 13 years ago. I originally made it for myself and wore it exclusively long before I started the Papillon brand. All of my perfumes are created by myself with no outside assistance, which is liberating but scary sometimes.

What are the perfumes you use other than your brand? And favorites?

I love the classic Guerlain fragrances and often wear Shalimar in extrait form. Ubar and Lyric by Amouage are also favourites of mine, but the one I love the most is the Amouage attar Homage, now sadly discontinued.

What are your inspirations while creating perfume?

Much of my inspiration comes from nature, history, people or places. Often a beautiful material will inspire me to create a new perfume, or I may hear a piece of music and it will lead me to a point of inspiration.

Which your perfume is your favorite?

İt is really hard to choose a favourite perfume from my own collection as they all mean something to me on a personal level, all of them were created at different stages in my life and so it is difficult for me to select just one. İ am proud of each of the fragrances, but Salome was my biggest risk. When I finished creating Salome my family thought I had taken it a step too far; that the perfume was just too much, but I knew what I had fixed in my mind when I started the creative process and refused to change the formula. I am very happy that I went with my heart and kept the formula as I always intended it to be.

What do you think of synthetic notes?

I think synthetic notes are essential in creating a rounded, finished compostion but for me personally, if they dominate a formula they can utterly ruin it. I like to keep a balance of approximately 50% natural materials to 50% synthetic as I find this ratio works perfectly to balance and harmonise a fragrance. I never specifically calculate this ratio, it just seems to happen naturally when I am writing a formula. But it is the natural materials will always make a perfume spellbindingly beautiful and unique and a perfume without them somehow feels empty and hollow.

Which perfume would you like to create?

A supplier recently sent me samples of a stunning orange blossom absolute and rose T’aif oil and I would love to incorporate these materials into a future perfume for Papillon, and am currently sketching out ideas based around both of these materials.

Your perfume’s names are very interesting; what do you want to tell with names?

Mostly, the name for a fragrance comes during the creative process, it is rare that I will work a perfume around the name alone. When I was creating Anubis, the perfume had no name until I had almost finished the formula. I was reading a book about ancient Egypt and realised that many of the materials I had used in this perfume were also used in the mummification process. Anubis was named after the God of the afterlife and mummification and I felt this name was the perfect fit for the fragrance. In the case of my latest perfume to be released this July, the name came first and I created a perfume around it. This year will be the 7th anniversary of the Papillon brand and also the 7th perfume in the collection. I decided to go back to my original source from when I created Anubis and include another perfume inspired by ancient Egypt. The number 7 in ancient Egypt was seen as number of the Gods, so I revisited early inspiration and wove a compostion around the most important spell from the Book of the Dead, Spell 125. As Anubis is present during the weighing of the heart ceremony it seemed perfect to name a perfume after the most important spell, Spell 125.

What is your favorite vintage perfume?

Vintage Guerlain perfumes, but the vintage perfume that holds the most magic for me is Youth Dew by Estee Lauder.

What would you say perfume lovers in Turkey?

Firstly, I would like to say a huge thank you to all of you. Since the Papillon collection arrived at Nokta Cosmetics I have been blown away by the love and support for the brand and the fragrances, it is truly humbling. I cannot wait until the travelling restrictions have ben lifted and I can visit your beautiful country, and hopefully meet some of you!

Thanks for your time. I like your scents, this is so special for me. Thank you so much again.

It has been an absolute pleasure speaking with you. Thank you Sezgin.

Liz MOORES - Sezgin BARAN

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